Supurb condition 2001 Jaguar XKR, full service history, 12 month MOT, Gleaming Black with Ivory Interior Recent tyres all round, front shock absorbers, battery, lambda sensors. Vented front discs, wheels refurbished, rear wheel bearings replaced. Leather recoloured a couple of years ago, stainless steel exhaust - maintained regardless of cost.
New fuel pumps Owned by a Jag XKR enthusiast and only used occasionally. Mechanically very good, gearbox very good and no problems.
Private plate included worth around 1500 pound Appreciating classic which you will not lose on in the long run. 6950 ONO genuine buyers only.
Ro500 answered 9 years ago I HAVE HAD A SIMILIAR ISSUE WITH CAR THAT I AM WORKING ON. CAR CAME IN WITH SAME ISSUE BATTERY DEAD. BOOST, CAR STARTS THEN DIES. CHECKED CHARGING SYSTEM ALTERNATOR OUTPUT WAS 12.5 WHICH IS TOO LOW. BATTERY WAS FROZEN DUE TO COLD TEMP.
GOT ALTERNATOR REBUILT AND INSTALLED BRAND NEW INTERSTATE BATTERY. CAR WORKED FINE FOR A MONTH OR SO AND IS BACK TO ME AGAIN.
I CHECKED THE BATTERY DRAIN AND COULD SEE CLEARLY THAT SOMETHING WAS DRAINING THE BATTERY AT A VERY RAPID RATE. DEFINITELY AN ELECTRICAL PROBLEM IN THE SYSTEM. DIAGNOSING AND FINDING OUT COULD TAKE HOURS. SO I INSTALLED A BATTERY PROTECTOR WHICH WILL CUT OFF POWER TO THE CAR IF IT DETECTS BATTERY GETTING TOO WEAK TO START. WILL SEE HOW THIS WORKS, AS THIS WILL ALWAYS KEEP THE BATTERY ACID FROM FREEZING SINCE IT WILL NOT LET IT DRAIN BELOW CERTAIN VOLTAGE.
IF THIS SOLVES THE PROBLEM THEN IT IS FOR SURE WISE TO INVEST LOTS OF HOURS INTO TROUBLESHOOTING THE ELECTRICAL ISSUE.WHICH ARE NOT EASY TO DIAGNOSE IN THESE CARS EVEN THOUGH I AM AN ELECTRICAL ENGINEER. TRY THE BATTERY PROTECTOR. IT IS ONLY $69.99 AND PRETTY EASY TO INSTALL. JaguarK answered 7 years ago I purchased my 2000 S type in March 2010, one week later, i noticed it would often slip while driving(RPM's would rare but wouldn't move),and it would take like 7 Second to go in gear when shiftig. Two weeks later I park on a very 'SLIGHT INCLINE' without using parking break.
I ended up breaking the gear shifter trying to get the car into gear($1,000) i figured this was ok because when i replaced the and shifter and cable, it stoped the slipping thing. About 2 months later my check engine came on and i took it to FireStone and they let me that it was just a broken sensor and it was no big deal but recommended i replace it. When I purchaced my car it never had the cd magizine, so last week got a CD/DVD player in installed( mistake #1). Everything seemed to be working fine. Two days later i drove from Los Angeles to Riverside (mistake #2).
About 30mins later i got back in my car and the battery light was on. I tryed to get to the Auto Zone less the one mile away and evey single sensor came on in the car and it shut down. AAA came can let me know that it was my battery and alternator. The car had to be towed. I put it in the shop next day, they replaced the alternator did some electrical work an its been back and forth 3 time because they can not figure out the CORRECT problem. I also heard that the car ONLY TAKES A SPECIFIC battery!
Could that be the problem? This car is costing me WAAAAAAY too much$$$$ Can this cars ever be fixed 100%?
Fannandr answered 7 years ago I have a 2002 XKR, a 2002 X-Type and a 2000 S-Type. All seem to have quirks but all great cars. I found on my 2000 S-type there is a switch in the truck for the trunk light. This is a button (push in style of switch) and it had broke where it wouldn't reach the area it needed to depress enough to turn off.
No one ever thinks to check their truck. So my battery would frequently end up dead. Since I do not drive this car daily.
It became a major frustration. I finally found this issue one day. I was going to replace the switch but I ended up drilling a hole and using a ford style rubber front hood adjuster and I fitted it to the lower area where the truck light switch contacts.
This depresses the button fully and turns off my trunk light. My battery has been up since then!!!:-) the modification looks like it came from the factory that way. So all is good. I am currently working through the no power to the radio issue and its missing on cyclinders 3 and 4 but im sure that is the valve cover gasket/coil pack issue. Habenero34 answered 5 years ago My 2003 XKR recently began having problems with Navigation/Clock (stopped working) and the radio became intermittent. This was several weeks ago - this morning the car was dead - no lights - nothing.
I was able to jump the car and took it to a Jaguar specialty shop (very honest). The checked the system and came back output was too low. Recommended an alternator - this will cost me around $600 for an OEM. I got a quote from another shop priced at $1100.
The other shop made a comment that the Alternators in these type of cars rarely go bad. A little nervous getting this done later in the week. RDebeaux answered 4 years ago The troubleshooting process is very simple, BUT; time consuming.
You will need: A multimeter. A fuse puller. (a second person is helpful when you can't see the meter. Everything is about CURRENT. Voltage is the carrier, but current does the work. Current is measured in AMPERES. In small measurements, it is called milliamperes.
You need to charge the battery fully. Get distilled water and fill up the cells, there are plenty of you tube videos. What you will be looking for is a parasitic drain. Your battery powers everything. Then it is replenished by the battery. Ok, once you have the items mentioned above, you need to take a few precautions. Wear insulating gloves.
Wear eye protection. Bypass door switches (so the car doesn't ring chimes and use current and mess up your readings) Ok, Voltage is measured in PARALLEL. This is when you take your meter, select DC Voltage, and place the red lead on the positive terminal, and the black lead on the black terminal. Because your meter is on the same places the car gets it's power from, this is parallel. Current on the other hand is measured in SERIES. Place your meter's selection on AMPEREs. (some meters have an extra connection for the lead when using for high amp circuits) That is like a chain of events.
One thing is connected to another thing, then to another and so on. You MUST break the chain of electrical connection and place the meter on amperes in that break.
So, disconnect the negative lead on the battery, and place your meters leads red to the cable you disconnected, and black to the battery's terminal. You are now in series with the battery. Assuming that nothing is turned on in the car, and everything is working like a charm, you should read about.050 amps. Or 50 milliamps. Some may be higher, some may be lower, but that is a standard to go. If you are reading a larger amount of amps, like 1 or 2 apmps or more, then you have a drain on your system that WILL eventually drain your battery.
The trick now is, pull EVERY fuse one at a time and replace it. Once you pull the fuse that cause the drain to stop, ( reading on meter drops to.050 or so), then you have found the affected circuit with the component draining your power. If that circuit has multiple items on it, then you will need a schematic to see what all is powered. In order to see the steps I am taking about, please goto Good luck. If you are not comfortable using the steps I listed, please get someone who is.
Richierat answered 4 years ago THIS CAR TAKES A SPECIAL COMBINATION DEEP CYCLE AND STARTING BATTERY NOTHING ELSE, GO ONLINE PRICE THEM ABOUT 300.00 GET THE PROPER SIZE, PUT IT IN AND PROBLEM SOLVED. AN ALTERNATIVE IS TO BUY A BATTERY CUT OFF SWITCH ABOUT 100.00, IT WILL CUT THE POWER OFF AT 11.8 VOLTS, YOU WILL LOOSE YOUR ALARM, BUT NOT YOUR STARTING ABILITY, IT ATTACHES TO THE BATTERY POLES AND TO TURN IT OFF YOU STEP ON THE BRAKES AND PUT THE LIGHTS ON AND OFF THEN THE IGNITION WILL COME BACK ON AVAILABLE AT GEMPLERS.COM.
I experienced involuntry acceleration in my 2003 jag s/type. When I went to apply the brake at a stop sign, the car accelerated at a high speed on to traffic. With both feet on the brake the car continued out of control. You could hear the car reving. In order to avoid hitting others I steered the car toward a high curb hoping this would stop the car. The car incurred damage to the rt. Front wheel/tire and the undercarriage of the car.
This did stop the rpm but did not stop the damage to my nerves. I will never drive a Jag. This is a safety issue that needs to be addressed by Jaguar.
I am not the only one that has experienced this terrifying incident.I contacted the NHTS administration and they told me that they have had similar complaints. Be Careful.don't buy a jag. Beautiful looking Car and great looking interior with a really impressive motor - thats where it ends. Cheap bushing that doesn't last and cheap bits such as the expansion tank which is prone to cracking causing the engine to overheat. The transmission (auto) is rubbish and the Achilles heel of the car.
The interior plastic cannot take the climate (desert) or UV and cracks easily. Jaguar reeks of style and quality thats why this car does not deserve the badge - it is shameful and I am a Brit who has owned many XJs and XJs. Please walk away from this car at all costs. My 4.2 is a Dream car. I have had a few little things go wrong. ( Throttle Body replaced. Water pump Replacement.
Driver side rear Axle went out), then the things you knew would go wrong, things like, the Brakes I Did not change the Plugs for 109,000,and it never missed a beat. Great Fuel car. The Brakes last longer than any car I have owned. You also have to take care of it. Run Good Fuel Mid- Grade, 76, Standard, Snoco when I was back east.
You still have the best looking Jaguar on the street. But I also have 113,679 on it also,all mine. There is some front end work I hear now, up front maybe bushings I will replace all 8 of them front and rear, the noise is from the passenger front side. We brought it in Detriot. Troy Michgan and had it shipped to California. Its pretty good to us.
Jaguar Cars 2018
I really like the new Supercharged Jaguar. I'm thing about buying another one. So you people that are not happy. You should buy an new one and you will be happy with your investment. Like other reviewers, my car has been in the shop so many times for heating and a/c related events.
The biggest problem I see is the shop doesn't check out all the issues at once. They know that one issue will cause a problem for another, but they only fix the immediate issue.and hope you come back the very next month or sooner to fix the other issue(s). It's called labor $ per hour, they will gladly take your car apart again for 8-10 hours at $125/hr. Make sure to ask them to look at ALL items affected by one part leaking or going bad.
If you don't ask, they will not look. I own a 2003 Jaguar that I can NOT say enough horrible things regarding the maintenance nightmare that sits in my garage.
In 2010 I paid almost $8000 in car repairs. In 2011 my car was in the shop 5 times not to mention the fact the last repair was $900.00 There has to be a serious problem with service departments that offer financing programs!!
Now my key remote controls don't work and the engine malfunction light just lit up. This is more than a LEMON it is CRIMINAL that a car's maintenance costs more than the value of the car. I have issues giving this car ANY star for quality and reliability! I have a 2000 S type that has been relatively trouble free for for the past 10 yrs. Operation manual caterpillar 3516b. I bought the off lease with 25K miles on it.
Recently had to replace the passenger window assembly, and the odometer has not worked for the ast two years. The only fix for this is to replace the instrument cluster, and it seems that I must go to a Jag dealer to get this repaired.
I have to drive 80 miles round trip to find a dealer. I really want to keep the car but I'm pissed that I can't find someone else to fix my ride. I've owned this car for the last few years (Bought used, was a bank-repo) and so far I really can't complain about it too much.
The engine has been flawless, no leaks of oil or coolant. The transmission has never produced a leak of any type either.
The fit and finish of the exterior is wonderful. NOTHING rattles or is showing any signs of wear. The interior is also great, still tight after 9 years of driving with my only complaint being the one cup holder for the two front passengers and the drivers seat wearing on the outer bolster from getting in and out of the car.
Nothing has ripped, cracked or come apart and ALL electrical options still function as they did when first new. My only major complaint is that I have a transmission issue that I can't seem to diagnose???
'Transmission Fault Warning' shows in the odometer area, but the car drives fine??? The brakes have always been spongy but it stops well.
Never had to panic stop with it and I don't look forward to having to! Besides that and usual routine preventative repairs (water pump, hoses & belts) nothing has gone wrong under the hood.Period! Currently at 98,000 miles and still going strong. But I figure something will go eventually and I'm sure it will be expensive when it does.
I get compliments on mine daily (No B.S.) and its not my favorite car, but its comfortable, handles well and is a great HIGHWAY car with exceptional gas mileage for a heavy sedan (26+ average MPG on the highway at 85mph). I would recommend this car to anyone with the means to maintain it. As we all know Jaguar makes a visually beautiful car that can be bothersome at times and very costly when something major does go wrong, but with routine work done, mine has been running and driving well with the exception of the few issues mentioned before. Have about 78,000 miles on mine (3rd S-Type I have owned) and love it. Did have one significant ignition problem, but it was covered by the warranty. Problem caused by a faulty fuel float.
Only other problem I have had, and I am working on it now, is that the coolant reservoir was replaced and there is a 'small' leak I discovered this morning on the upper hose at the clamp level. While I hate to boast, my 4.2 gets between 30 and 34 mpg on the highway and 22 - 24 in town. I have loved all my S-type and am sorry to see the style gone!
Jaguar refreshed the 2018 F-Type for the w. Here are seven things you need to know about the, if you are considering the new turbo four. The 296-horsepower F-Type 2.0L has its own handling characteristics. The new base engine is about 124 pounds lighter than the previous base, the 340-horsepower supercharged 3.0-liter V-6, which remains in the lineup. That’s 124 fewer pounds over the front axle, notes vehicle program director Erol Mustafa, making the F-Type 2.0 a “beautifully balanced” sports car.
He and his team retuned the springs, dampers and anti-roll bars for the new turbo four, along with the traction control and the power steering. “I use the term ‘playful.’ It’s a great car to just throw around. It just loves it, and you couple that with a four-cylinder exhaust note, a sporty four-cylinder exhaust note, and it’s got character.” And yes, the 2.0L comes with an active exhaust, with the button for driver-control optional at extra cost. But the turbo four only comes with the 8-speed automatic.
Considering points number 1 and number 2, the new 2.0-liter should come with a six-speed manual option. But Jaguar will offer it only with the eight-speed automatic when it goes on sale late this summer. Unlike the supercharged V-6 and supercharged V-8, the four is rear-wheel-drive only — no all-wheel-drive option. Granted, the 0-60 mph time of 5.4-seconds for the 296-hp turbo four is 0.1-second quicker than the 340-hp, 3.0-liter supercharged F-Type manual, while the 3.0-liter automatic does the job in just 5.1 seconds. But that lively, light-nosed handling Mustafa describes is crying for a three-pedal transmission.
The product chief says it could be added at a later date. “We have to see how well-received the automatic (turbo four) is, and if customers demand it, we’ll react accordingly.” Fingers crossed. Look for the exhaust pipes. Only exterior visual clue betraying the F-Type’s 2.0-liter is the single exhaust pipe, a wide oval piece in the middle of the lower rear fascia.
2018 Jaguar Models
F-Types with the supercharged V-6 retain their twin exhaust tips. With the new four-bangers, the F-Type lineup now comes in 28 variations, considering engine, body-type, transmission, RWD vs. Base price for the ’18 Jaguar F-Type with the 296-hp turbo four is $60,895 for the coupe and $63,995 for the convertible, both including destination charges, with the top-spec SVR at the top-end, at $125,995. The 2017 F-Type coupe with the 3.0-liter supercharged V-6 is $62,395, but for the ’18 model year, it climbs to $68,995 for the manual coupe, and $72,095 for the manual convertible. There are other subtle changes in the MY18 facelift. The front bumpers are brand-new, and LED headlamps are standard across the board, replacing bi-xenon headlamps. Taillamp lenses are a darker shade of red.
2018 Jaguar F Type Coupe
The seats are thinner, creating more legroom and saving 19.4 pounds. And there’s a special-edition. Not counted among the 28 variations is a 400 Sport special edition 2018 Jaguar F-Type, which comes with special yellow stitching on gray leather seats, and a 20-horsepower bump for the supercharged V-6. It comes as either a coupe or convertible, with either RWD or AWD. But alas, no manual option — eight-speed automatic only. Prices are $90,495 and $93,495 for the RWD and AWD coupes, and $93,595 and $96,595 for the RWD and AWD convertibles.
This manual contains high quality diagrams, schematics, pictures, step-by-step instructions on how to service and repair your Toyota forklift. With this information, you will receive a detailed description of the spare parts. Make sure you understand the contents of this manual and use it to full effect at every opportunity. The manual will provide you with complete and practical information that will help you use, maintain and repair the forklift and to achieve maximum effect.
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